122 km, 07:10 cycling, average speed 17,0 km/h, total ascent 1754 m, net ascent 0 m
(highest one-day total ascent so far)
When a tunnel is a warm and cosy place for eating
There is one ferry on this stretch, from Botnhamn on the island of Senja to Brensholmen on Kvalsøya. On Sundays it leaves at 11:15 and 16:00. Botnhamn i 67 km from Hamn. So I have the choice to leave Hamn early and catch the first ferry or take it easy, but either come to Tromsø quite late or stop earlier - didn't see any possibilities for that though. So decided for the first, leaving a 06:25. The snatch was that the weather forecast for the first hours was still quite bad, but improving later.
And bad it was. Strong wind and lots of rain. Wind from behind to begin with, so good progress. But after 40 minutes I have to take off to the left, and here is a 300 m steep ascent. The really bad part starts from the top and downhill. Here the road turns to the northwest, and heavy rain and strong wind whip my face so I have to concentrate to see the road well downhill. And cold, I guess 5 degrees. You really have to move on in order to keep somewhat warm. The flatter part in a strong head wind is also tough. I start wondering, what if the weather forecast is wrong, and this weather continues all day? The problem is, you cannot continue to use much energy without eating, and where to do that in this weather? No cafes, shops or anything around here. I decide to stop in a tunnel - normally they feel chilly, but now they seem warm. Have some food and take a pee. Twice. However, when the road turns to the west again, the going gets a lot easier, and the weather also gradually improves. I even get to see a little of the beautiful island of Senja - a pity the weather has been so bad since I came to Lofoten. This is a wonderful part of Norway. But then again, people come here from the other end of the world and get the same experience. No problem to return later, and I certainly will.
I made the ferry in time, it was nice and warm and they had coffee and vafler - life is improving! Afterwards fair weather for a while, then again rain the last part to Tromsø, but not so heavy as in the beginning.
Tomorrow I have to fix a small problem with my bike (broken spoke), but hope to continue between 10 and 11. Haven't really decided how far to go yet.
And by the way, been above the polar circle for 5 days now and wonder if I will see the midnight sun (or the any time sun).
To be sure, I do not mean to complain about the weather, just describe my experience. As another Dutch cyclist said today: You cannot complain, this is what cycling to Nordkapp is about! Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose.
(highest one-day total ascent so far)
When a tunnel is a warm and cosy place for eating
There is one ferry on this stretch, from Botnhamn on the island of Senja to Brensholmen on Kvalsøya. On Sundays it leaves at 11:15 and 16:00. Botnhamn i 67 km from Hamn. So I have the choice to leave Hamn early and catch the first ferry or take it easy, but either come to Tromsø quite late or stop earlier - didn't see any possibilities for that though. So decided for the first, leaving a 06:25. The snatch was that the weather forecast for the first hours was still quite bad, but improving later.
And bad it was. Strong wind and lots of rain. Wind from behind to begin with, so good progress. But after 40 minutes I have to take off to the left, and here is a 300 m steep ascent. The really bad part starts from the top and downhill. Here the road turns to the northwest, and heavy rain and strong wind whip my face so I have to concentrate to see the road well downhill. And cold, I guess 5 degrees. You really have to move on in order to keep somewhat warm. The flatter part in a strong head wind is also tough. I start wondering, what if the weather forecast is wrong, and this weather continues all day? The problem is, you cannot continue to use much energy without eating, and where to do that in this weather? No cafes, shops or anything around here. I decide to stop in a tunnel - normally they feel chilly, but now they seem warm. Have some food and take a pee. Twice. However, when the road turns to the west again, the going gets a lot easier, and the weather also gradually improves. I even get to see a little of the beautiful island of Senja - a pity the weather has been so bad since I came to Lofoten. This is a wonderful part of Norway. But then again, people come here from the other end of the world and get the same experience. No problem to return later, and I certainly will.
I made the ferry in time, it was nice and warm and they had coffee and vafler - life is improving! Afterwards fair weather for a while, then again rain the last part to Tromsø, but not so heavy as in the beginning.
Tomorrow I have to fix a small problem with my bike (broken spoke), but hope to continue between 10 and 11. Haven't really decided how far to go yet.
And by the way, been above the polar circle for 5 days now and wonder if I will see the midnight sun (or the any time sun).
To be sure, I do not mean to complain about the weather, just describe my experience. As another Dutch cyclist said today: You cannot complain, this is what cycling to Nordkapp is about! Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose.
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| Unintentionally the route was split in two. Here you can see the part of the route going northwest against the wind and rain |
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| Note that the vertical scales on these two graphs are different, so the first hill was significantly higher. The last two climbs are the bridge before Tromsø and inside Tromsø. I regretted the last one, you can ride around. It is 4 km longer but flat. |
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| Lots of water in all creeks. Sorry for the bad picture - the lens gets damp in my pocket. And I was already freezing after the 3 min it took me to take this picture. |
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| From the steep ascent. There is fresh snow in the mountains, but not so visible on the picture. |
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| Now we are talking bus shed! |
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| You realise you have come to Tromsø |
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| View from Tromsø harbour |
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