125 km, 6:48 cycling, average speed 18,3 km/h, total ascent 1403 m, net ascent 0 m
21st of June, the longest day of the year. I am well north of the Polar Circle, but haven't seen the sun since I passed it - neither day nor night. Hopefully later the coming week. Hope to be about halfway from Trondheim now.
It did not rain all day, the first half hour was dry. The worst weather day since Lindesnes. The forecast for the coming days is not fantastic, but better. I am glad I brought my old small "orienteering" rubber boots so I keep my feet dry. An English guy I met was jealous of those, the usual covers don't last more than an hour, max.
Bad luck to have so bad weather in this particularly beautiful area, but fortunately the clouds are high enough so I at least see something of the mountains. It is really a wonderful area, but packed with tourists, already now.
The first part of the road from Moskenes is much improved since I was here with Anbjørg in 2003. Broader and several tunnels. For some the old road is still there, good for cyclists. First two stops today in shopping centres in Ramberg and Leknes; generally not my favorite places, but warm and dry. About 30 km before Svolvær I had to make another stop for food. I felt my energy was used up, and then 30 km is way too long. A very cold stop in yet another bus shed. It took time to get warm again. That is the worst with the rain (and cold) - if you can't find a place to rest and eat inside, you quickly get cold. But soon there will be another ascent so you get warm again.
About 40 km before Svolvær it rained very heavily, and I went to a tractor repair shop (this is country side) and asked if I could stand there and wait for a while. Sure I could. The guy asked where I was going - Svolvær. He was driving there soon and could take me! I said no thanks, that is cheating. But a nice offer. As I said before, great hospitality here.
All in all the cycling went well, the old body seems to start accepting the order of things. It is my usual experience from mountain hikes also. And fortunately my bum also cooperates so far this time.
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| Only one (halfway) serious climb, but as usual many small ones, especially the first 50 km and in the end. The negative altitude is the Nappstraum tunnel between the islands Vestvågøy and Flakstadøy. The depth is -63 m but the GPS looses it signal. From Leknes, I tool the provincial road 815, which was quite flat (apart from the one climb), and mostly with tailwind. And little traffic. |
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| Looking back at Reine. Low clouds, but still some visibility |
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| Fish drying (Dutch: stokvis) close to Reine |
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| The norhern entrance of the Nappstraum tunnel. Not for claustrophobics, funny feeling to be 63 m below sea level on your bike. And you face a 70 m ascent. Surprisingly, the air is fresh in spite of the traffic. Always enough wind blowing through I guess. |
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| Fish farming |
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| Along the secondary road 815 there are some wonderful beaches. But not exactly beach weather. And if it was, the water i 8-10 degrees I assume (picture became a bit blurred due to water on the lense...) |
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| Our colleagues from Lofotkraft (the local power company) have some challenges. I would believe this terrain was avalanche prone, but probably not. |
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| Svolvær is the administrative center of Lofoten, and also known for the mountain "Svolværgeita", the Svolvær goat (picture from Internet) |
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